기로에 선 패션 산업: 기후 영향 해결을 위한 긴급한 협력 요구

뉴욕 패션 위크에 이어 9월 17일에는 7만 명이 넘는 사람들이 맨해튼 거리를 행진하며 화석 연료 산업의 종식과 전 지구적 차원의 기후 정의를 열렬히 요구하는 기후 위크가 열렸습니다. 그러나 이러한 열기는 패션위크가 시작되기 불과 일주일 전에 발생한 리비아의 대홍수로 인해 막대한 인명 피해와 이재민이 발생했음에도 불구하고 기후 위기에 대한 인식이 전혀 없는 패션 컬렉션이 등장한 런웨이와는 극명한 대조를 이뤘습니다.

패션계가 세계에서 가장 시급한 실존적 위기 중 하나에 대해 놀라울 정도로 침묵하는 것처럼 보였지만, 몇몇 기후 운동가들은 온실가스 배출과도 연관된 동물 착취를 중단할 것을 주장하며 명품 브랜드 코치(Coach)를 비롯한 패션쇼를 방해했습니다. 이러한 시위는 보안 요원의 강제 퇴장으로 이어졌습니다.

이러한 불일치는 패션 평론가 캐시 호린의 말처럼 패션 업계가 기후 비상사태를 부정하거나 무관심한 상태인지, 아니면 단순히 문제의 심각성 때문에 마비된 것인지에 대한 의문을 제기합니다.

크리에이티브 디렉터, 디자이너 및 업계 전문가들 사이에서 널리 퍼진 정서는 기후 문제를 해결하기 위한 충분한 조치를 취하지 않으면 '취소'될까 봐 두려워하는 것입니다. 하지만 이러한 두려움이 가시적으로 드러나든 그렇지 않든, 이는 중요한 질문을 던지게 합니다: 6년 이내에 탄소 배출량을 크게 줄이지 않으면 전 세계가 연쇄적인 생태계 붕괴를 경험하게 될 것이라는 과학적 합의에 대해 패션 업계 경영진은 충분히 우려하고 있을까요?

저는 2000년대 초반부터 슬로우 팩토리라는 단체를 이끄는 기후 운동가로서 패션 업계와 그 밖의 분야에서 기후 정의에 대한 중요한 정보를 제공하기 위해 노력해 왔습니다. 이러한 활동을 통해 패션 업계에 표면적으로 드러나지는 않지만 집단적인 불안감이 존재한다는 것을 관찰했습니다. 패션 업계는 약속과 좋은 의도로 가득 차 있지만, 전반적인 궤적은 크게 변하지 않았습니다.

문제는 두 가지입니다. 첫째, 투명성과 명확한 데이터가 부족하다는 점입니다. 둘째, 보다 근본적인 문제, 즉 업계 전반의 관점 부족이 있습니다. 패션은 복잡하고 분산된 시스템 내에서 운영되며, 특히 화학 염료 및 섬유 폐기물과 관련된 인권 및 환경 문제로 가득 차 있습니다. 패션 업계는 포괄적인 관점이 부족하기 때문에 전체 시스템에 영향을 미칠 수 있는 의사결정을 내리는 데 어려움을 겪는 경우가 많습니다. 그 대신 특정 측면에만 좁게 초점을 맞추고 더 큰 그림을 고려하지 않는 의사결정을 내리는 경향이 있습니다. 의도와 행동 사이의 간극을 좁히기 위해서는 패션 포 굿, 지속 가능한 의류 연합(SAC), 의류 영향 연구소 같은 단체의 도움이 필요한데, 이들은 훌륭한 노력을 기울이고 있지만 종종 고립적으로 활동하며 서로 경쟁하는 의제를 가지고 있습니다.

#기후행동주의, #패션산업, #기후위기, #지속가능성, #협업, #탄소배출, #기후정의, #패션혁신, #환경영향, #지속가능한패션, #담비키퍼, #그린키퍼, #꿀벌마을이야기, #기후이야기, #환경이야기, #탄소이야기

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